Ingredient glossary

18 ingredients in plain language. The strengths are the ones studies or rules use, and each entry links to where we read it.

A

Allantoin

INCI name: Allantoin

A urea-derived compound.

What it does: Softens the surface and is soothing. It is used in skin protectants at 0.5% to 2%.
Strengths: 0.1% to 0.5% in cosmetics; the Cosmetic Ingredient Review found use up to 2% safe
Be careful if: None notable.
Sources: Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Final report on allantoin. Int J Toxicol 2010
In our range: Gentle Gel Cleanser
Hyaluronic Acid 1% Serum
Centella Calming Gel
Barrier Moisturiser

Azelaic acid

INCI name: Azelaic Acid

A dicarboxylic acid that occurs naturally in grains.

What it does: Prescription gels (15%) and creams (20%) are used in some countries for acne and rosacea. It is not something we sell.
Strengths: Not permitted in cosmetics in Malaysia
Be careful if: Azelaic acid is on NPRA's list of substances that must not be in a cosmetic (ASEAN Annex II, entry A1141). A product sold as a cosmetic that lists it should raise questions. Use it only under a doctor's direction.
Sources: NPRA. Annex II, substances that must not form part of a cosmetic product (release 10 June 2026)
DermNet. Azelaic acid
In our range: Not in any product.

C

Centella asiatica extract

INCI name: Centella Asiatica Extract

A plant extract whose active parts are asiaticoside, madecassoside and related triterpenes.

What it does: Studied for soothing and wound care. We only say it helps skin look calmer.
Strengths: 0.05% to 1%, typical
Be careful if: Contact allergy has been reported.
Sources: Bylka W et al. Centella asiatica in dermatology: an overview. Phytother Res 2014
In our range: Centella Calming Gel

Ceramide NP

INCI name: Ceramide NP (with Ceramide AP and Ceramide EOP)

A skin-identical lipid, one of the ceramides in the gaps between skin cells.

What it does: Forms the barrier's lipid layers together with cholesterol and fatty acids.
Strengths: 0.1% to 1% combined lipids, common practice
Be careful if: Few risks, but a ceramide alone does not do the job: it needs the full lipid mix.
Sources: Coderch L et al. Ceramides and skin function. Am J Clin Dermatol 2003
Man MQ et al. Optimization of physiological lipid mixtures for barrier repair. J Invest Dermatol 1996
Meckfessel MH, Brandt S. Ceramides in skin and skin-care products. J Am Acad Dermatol 2014
In our range: Barrier Moisturiser
Barrier Lip Balm

F

Ferulic acid

INCI name: Ferulic Acid

A plant phenolic antioxidant.

What it does: Steadied a vitamin C and E mix and roughly doubled its photoprotection in skin in a 2005 study.
Strengths: About 0.5%
Be careful if: It only works at the low pH vitamin C needs.
Sources: Lin FH et al. Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E. J Invest Dermatol 2005
In our range: Vitamin C 10% Serum

G

Glycerin

INCI name: Glycerin

A simple, water-loving polyol.

What it does: A humectant. It attracts water and is in most moisturisers.
Strengths: 3% to 10% in creams and serums
Be careful if: Very high levels can feel tacky.
Sources: DermNet. Emollients and moisturisers
In our range: Gentle Gel Cleanser
Barrier Moisturiser
Hyaluronic Acid 1% Serum

L

L-ascorbic acid

INCI name: Ascorbic Acid

Pure vitamin C, the form with the most research behind it.

What it does: An antioxidant that helps the look of dullness and uneven tone. Trials used 5% to 15%.
Strengths: 10% to 20% for efficacy; absorption tops out near 20%
Be careful if: Stings on damaged skin. It oxidises to yellow or brown, so keep it dark, cool and sealed.
Sources: Pinnell SR et al. Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies. Dermatol Surg 2001
Telang PS. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J 2013
Humbert PG et al. Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Exp Dermatol 2003
In our range: Vitamin C 10% Serum

N

Niacinamide

INCI name: Niacinamide

Vitamin B3, in its amide form.

What it does: Helps even the look of tone and supports the barrier. Studies report a softer look of blotchiness and roughness.
Strengths: 2% to 5% in studies
Be careful if: Rarely, flushing or stinging. Start every other day on sensitive skin.
Sources: Hakozaki T et al. Niacinamide and pigmentation. Br J Dermatol 2002
Navarrete-Solis J et al. Niacinamide 4% vs hydroquinone 4% in melasma. Dermatol Res Pract 2011
Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Final report on niacinamide and niacin. Int J Toxicol 2005
In our range: Niacinamide 5% Serum
Barrier Moisturiser
Daily Sunscreen SPF 50 PA++++

P

Panthenol

INCI name: Panthenol

Provitamin B5, which the skin converts to pantothenic acid.

What it does: Hydrates and helped barrier repair after an irritation test in a 2002 study.
Strengths: 1% to 5%
Be careful if: Allergy to panthenol is rare.
Sources: Proksch E, Nissen HP. Dexpanthenol enhances skin barrier repair after SLS irritation. J Dermatolog Treat 2002
In our range: Hyaluronic Acid 1% Serum
Niacinamide 5% Serum
Barrier Moisturiser
Centella Calming Gel

R

Retinol

INCI name: Retinol

Vitamin A alcohol. The skin converts it, step by step, toward retinoic acid.

What it does: Helps the look of fine lines and rough texture over months.
Strengths: Starter products are commonly 0.1% to 0.3%; the EU caps face products at 0.3% retinol equivalent
Be careful if: Not in pregnancy or when trying to conceive. Dryness, sun sensitivity, and caution with rosacea or eczema.
Sources: AAD. Retinoid or retinol?
Mukherjee S et al. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging. Clin Interv Aging 2006
Kafi R et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol 2007
EU Regulation 2024/996, retinol entry 376 (0.3% retinol equivalent in leave-on products, 0.05% in body lotion)
In our range: Retinol 0.3% Night Serum

S

Salicylic acid

INCI name: Salicylic Acid

A BHA. It is related to aspirin and dissolves in oil.

What it does: Loosens dead skin cells in and around the pore and helps the look of congested pores.
Strengths: 0.5% to 2% leave-on
Be careful if: Not if you are allergic to aspirin. Ask your doctor if pregnant or breastfeeding. It makes exfoliated skin more delicate, so wear sunscreen.
Sources: Arif T. Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol 2015
US 21 CFR 333.310, OTC acne active ingredients
AAD 2024 acne guideline, via Guideline Central
In our range: BHA 2% Clarifying Liquid

Sodium hyaluronate

INCI name: Sodium Hyaluronate

The salt of hyaluronic acid, a sugar polymer the body also makes.

What it does: A humectant: it holds water on the surface of skin. Lower molecular weights may pass slightly further into the top layer.
Strengths: 0.1% to 2%
Be careful if: Almost nobody reacts. In very dry air, follow it with a moisturiser.
Sources: Pavicic T et al. 0.1% hyaluronan of different molecular weights. J Drugs Dermatol 2011
Essendoubi M et al. Skin penetration of hyaluronic acid by molecular weight. Skin Res Technol 2016
DermNet. Emollients and moisturisers
In our range: Hyaluronic Acid 1% Serum
Niacinamide 5% Serum
Gentle Gel Cleanser

Squalane

INCI name: Squalane

A stable, plant-derived saturated oil.

What it does: An emollient. It softens without feeling greasy.
Strengths: 1% to 10%
Be careful if: Some acne-prone skin finds rich oils heavy. Patch test.
Sources: Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Squalane and squalene. Int J Toxicol 2023
In our range: Retinol 0.3% Night Serum
Barrier Moisturiser
Barrier Lip Balm

T

Tinosorb S

INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

An oil-soluble, broad-spectrum UV filter that does not break down in sunlight.

What it does: Absorbs UVA and UVB and helps steady other filters.
Strengths: Legal maximum 10%; commonly 1% to 4% in SPF 50 formulas
Be careful if: None notable. Formulas with it feel a little oilier.
Sources: BASF. UV filters technical information
BASF. Tinosorb S technical information
In our range: Daily Sunscreen SPF 50 PA++++

Tocopherol

INCI name: Tocopherol

Vitamin E.

What it does: An antioxidant that helps stabilise vitamin C and oils in a formula.
Strengths: 0.5% to 1%
Be careful if: Rare allergy.
Sources: Lin FH et al. Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E. J Invest Dermatol 2005
In our range: Vitamin C 10% Serum
Retinol 0.3% Night Serum
Daily Sunscreen SPF 50 PA++++

U

Uvinul A Plus

INCI name: Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

A photostable organic UVA filter.

What it does: Covers the long-wave UVA that reaches through glass.
Strengths: Legal maximum 10%; commonly 2% to 5%
Be careful if: None notable.
Sources: BASF. UV filters technical information
In our range: Daily Sunscreen SPF 50 PA++++

Z

Zinc oxide

INCI name: Zinc Oxide

A mineral filter. The particles reflect and absorb UV.

What it does: Broad-band protection, and a common choice for sensitive skin. Lumira Skin does not use it in this range.
Strengths: Up to 25%
Be careful if: Can leave a white cast. Nano-size must be declared on the pack.
Sources: BASF. UV filters technical information
AAD. Retinoid or retinol?
In our range: Not in any product.

Zinc PCA

INCI name: Zinc PCA

The zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid.

What it does: Used in oil-balancing products. The evidence that zinc controls oil is weak.
Strengths: 0.5% to 1%, typical
Be careful if: None notable.
Sources: Liu H et al. Topical azelaic acid, salicylic acid, nicotinamide, sulfur, zinc and fruit acid for acne. J Evid Based Med 2020
In our range: Niacinamide 5% Serum

Graduated cylinders and beakers of clear laboratory glass